The lost border
I have already mentioned that one of the things you have to do in Seoul is to go to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and Joint Security Area (JSA) between North and South Korea. I thought it was so powerful and important that I simply wanted to dedicate an entire post to this specific day. It is without a doubt one of the most influencial, authentic and core shaking realities that I have had the privilege of visiting during the last months here in Asia.
First thing first, there are two tours (yes, the only way to visit is by going on a tour, since it is a military war zone that's simply on a break to put it in simplistic terms). I went for the full day which included both the DMZ and the JSA tour. Now it is a very pricey excursion at 134 000 Won (955 SEK/ Euro 100) for the full day but it is definitely worth spending the money. Though if you have limited funds and time I would say to priorities the JSA tour. You have to book it at least 2 days in advance, register your passport for clearance and bring it on the day.
We started the day wih the JSA tour, arriving at Camp Bonifas were we had a short introduction to the events of the war so far and where we had to sign a declaration form which started wih the following sentence: "The visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom will entail the entrance into a hostile area and the possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action."
With that together with the firm directions of how to walk, talk and act. But more importantly how not to do anything other than paying attention to the security around us so we did not by accident do something that the North Koreans would see as threatenig and accidentally shoot us, we set out for Freedom House. This is THE place where he North and South meet to discuss any collaboration etc and it is where the armistice was signed back in 1953.
Right across from us was the North and their military standing guard. On 'our' side we had the soldiers standig in a defensive position as to intimidate the other side and protect us. They only hold this position when there are tourists which is good because it looks highly uncomfortable.
We then ventured in to the conference room where we crossed the border (as it goes right throgh the building) and I was actually standing on Norh Korean soil, with a South Korean soldier by my side.
It was an amazing experience, a bit surreal and definitely nervous to not do anything that would get me in trouble with the North.
We continued to visit the Bridge of No Return which is where the North and South exchanged Prisoners of War (POWs) after the armistice agreement in 1953.
After a lunch the JSA tour finished and half the group went back whereas the rest of us joined the DMZ tour. The DMZ is basically an area 3km south and 3km north of the official border that was set up in the armistice. This part of the tour took us to the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, which is one out of 4 tunnels that cross from the North side of the border and in to the South. Interesting the North Koreans claim that these tunnels were built by the South but there are clear evidence that he construction was completed from the North to South. In the tunnel there are three walls closing the tunnels and the one furthest away is 400m away from the border, on the south side.
It was an interesting visit and the highlight of the afternoon. Our second stop that afternoon was at the Dorasan Observatory where we could view the north and south at the same time.
Finally, we went to the Dorasan Station which is a fully functioning station that is standing ready to join the south and north when they are reunified. Because this is the hope amongst many Koreans. Despite the vast difference in the two countries, everything from economies and politics etc they are still feeling that they belong togeher as many have family on the other side of the border. When that day happen it will be a difficult time for the Korean peninsula but if any country can make a reunification of two very different countries work it is the Koreans. Just look at how well South Korea has recovered from being a war torn country to one of the most important economies in Asia.
But beyond anyhing else I left with the realisation that the Korean War is not over but is simply put on hold and before this will have a happy ending more catastrophy is most likely waiting the Korean peninsula. But wih that said until that day comes a visit here is a must as it is not just about what has happened but very much what will happen here in the maybe not so distant future.
First thing first, there are two tours (yes, the only way to visit is by going on a tour, since it is a military war zone that's simply on a break to put it in simplistic terms). I went for the full day which included both the DMZ and the JSA tour. Now it is a very pricey excursion at 134 000 Won (955 SEK/ Euro 100) for the full day but it is definitely worth spending the money. Though if you have limited funds and time I would say to priorities the JSA tour. You have to book it at least 2 days in advance, register your passport for clearance and bring it on the day.
We started the day wih the JSA tour, arriving at Camp Bonifas were we had a short introduction to the events of the war so far and where we had to sign a declaration form which started wih the following sentence: "The visit to the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom will entail the entrance into a hostile area and the possibility of injury or death as a direct result of enemy action."
With that together with the firm directions of how to walk, talk and act. But more importantly how not to do anything other than paying attention to the security around us so we did not by accident do something that the North Koreans would see as threatenig and accidentally shoot us, we set out for Freedom House. This is THE place where he North and South meet to discuss any collaboration etc and it is where the armistice was signed back in 1953.
Right across from us was the North and their military standing guard. On 'our' side we had the soldiers standig in a defensive position as to intimidate the other side and protect us. They only hold this position when there are tourists which is good because it looks highly uncomfortable.
We then ventured in to the conference room where we crossed the border (as it goes right throgh the building) and I was actually standing on Norh Korean soil, with a South Korean soldier by my side.
 |
| The nerves were definitely on show as I posed with the South Korean soldier |
It was an amazing experience, a bit surreal and definitely nervous to not do anything that would get me in trouble with the North.
We continued to visit the Bridge of No Return which is where the North and South exchanged Prisoners of War (POWs) after the armistice agreement in 1953.
After a lunch the JSA tour finished and half the group went back whereas the rest of us joined the DMZ tour. The DMZ is basically an area 3km south and 3km north of the official border that was set up in the armistice. This part of the tour took us to the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, which is one out of 4 tunnels that cross from the North side of the border and in to the South. Interesting the North Koreans claim that these tunnels were built by the South but there are clear evidence that he construction was completed from the North to South. In the tunnel there are three walls closing the tunnels and the one furthest away is 400m away from the border, on the south side.
It was an interesting visit and the highlight of the afternoon. Our second stop that afternoon was at the Dorasan Observatory where we could view the north and south at the same time.
Finally, we went to the Dorasan Station which is a fully functioning station that is standing ready to join the south and north when they are reunified. Because this is the hope amongst many Koreans. Despite the vast difference in the two countries, everything from economies and politics etc they are still feeling that they belong togeher as many have family on the other side of the border. When that day happen it will be a difficult time for the Korean peninsula but if any country can make a reunification of two very different countries work it is the Koreans. Just look at how well South Korea has recovered from being a war torn country to one of the most important economies in Asia.
But beyond anyhing else I left with the realisation that the Korean War is not over but is simply put on hold and before this will have a happy ending more catastrophy is most likely waiting the Korean peninsula. But wih that said until that day comes a visit here is a must as it is not just about what has happened but very much what will happen here in the maybe not so distant future.
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